A Burd in Beijing: Part One: èr gè yuè ! (two months ! )

This week I was asked to submit an article for the monthly newsletter at work - perfect timing to reflect on my last two months. This is more or less it, enjoy !

A South African lady I met at one of my favourite cafes once told me that after a week in Beijing one could write an entire book on the quirks of expat life. After a month, one could write an article, and after a year, just one page.

As an expat in Beijing you gradually become accustomed to the local way of life - to the hawking and spitting, pushing and shoving, lack of personal space and toilets (drop holes are surprisingly common), near death experiences when crossing the road, abundance of bureaucracy, and mile long elevator queues.

Tammy actually snapped this fantastic photo - it is sooooo Beijing.
Baby, Burberry, Tortoise - need I say more!!!

Also to bizarre sightings of two year olds riding tortoises, camels wandering the streets, babies wearing split pants with their bottoms exposed, fat men wearing their shirts rolled up to cool off during the summer, dogs in clothes, vegetable flavoured ice cream and of course all the other peculiar delicacies from turtles to tarantulas on offer.

However words cannot do justice to the incredible and occasionally overwhelming experience I have had in the past two months. Beijing can be intimidating with its wide open streets and massive domino-like identical grey blue buildings. But after weeks of exploring, getting lost and touring with the locals, I’ve uncovered countless gems. From quirky tea houses dotted in between old tree-lined alleys of Hutongs, the dynamic arts district, boho organic cafes, and hole in the wall bars with a Chinese twist, this city has much to offer.

Undoubtedly, the most significant challenge I have encountered has been the language barrier impacting every aspect of life from catching cabs, ordering food, understanding client documents and interacting with colleagues. Consequently, the challenges I face in the workplace, both as a new starter and non-Mandarin speaking foreigner, are not just technical but rather around building relationships with team mates and clients.

Given this I have built up patience and ensured that I prove myself by the quality of work I produce. I also offer ideas about alternative ways to do things in terms of gathering sufficient evidence and present comparisons against Australia. My colleagues are often surprised at how similar our audit methodology, tools and templates are to that in China and equally curious about the differences.

At first glance, the PwC open plan office has the same feeling with its walls plastered in PwC branding and photos from social events, but is distinctively different: a Chinese garden surrounds the reception, multiple people to a desk (and we think we have it bad on level 16 in the off season), and in place of an Espresso machine and Arnotts biscuits, there’s Oolong tea and delicious rice snacks. The dress code is notably more casual and the entrance of the building is lined with vendors selling Chinese snacks. It’s also not common that you meet the PwC Global Chairman, Dennis Nally, in the elevator!

Having tried multiple ways of beating the absurd traffic to work (subway- too crowded, taxis – too scarce), I take the bus twice daily. Each morning while I wait for the bus to arrive I enjoy watching crowds dancing outdoors or performing Tai Chi.

Daily work hours also vary starting around nine with a non-negotiable two hour lunch break at twelve when the office dies. Furthermore, the more senior you are in the hierarchy the later you arrive at work i.e. between 10 and 11am. This leaves limited hours in the day to co-ordinate meetings often attended by large groups - the most important person sitting furthest from the door, the second on his/her right, the third on his/her left and so on.

Conversely, I went to a Town Hall meeting last week where we discussed issues all very similar to those at home. Although it was meant to be in Putonghua Mandarin, my local SDP was facilitating and since I was in the room translated everything into English, which is reflective of how nice and accommodating people are here - I’m constantly being taken out for lunch by my colleagues and managers.

Notably I am the only foreigner at my level, which helps to explain this article I came across. The localization of the Big Four accounting firms formally kicks in at the end of this year but has already unofficially begun. Still about half of the partners and directors are currently expats and there is controversy about adequate succession planning and premature promotions to meet quotas.

I’ve closely aligned myself with an Australian partner and as a result my clients have largely been those undergoing US IPOs or are foreign owned energy companies. I have been fortunate enough to travel to a client site in Xi’an (infamous for the Terracotta warriors), learn about a new industry and understand the complexities presented by government ownership requirements. My English skills have finally been put to use sitting in on meetings with the CFO, translating “English with a French accent” to “English that my Chinese colleagues can understand,” and composing English reports. I’m also assisting to apply Australian Accounting Standards for Australian clients in gas exploration with Chinese subsidiaries.

Ultimately Beijing has been incredible experience from both a work and personal perspective. I have been meeting the most wonderful unique people all based in this emerging global capital for a wide variety of pursuits. I will miss my new local and expat friends, the exotic street snacks, antique markets, warm weather, and daily challenges which are ultimately always matched with rewarding triumphs. But with plenty more work to be done and cultural sites and relics to see, I’m not ready to come home just yet. See you in a month!