A Burd in Xi'an

A few weeks ago a chance encounter with an Australian partner at Starbucks and a self-introduction led me to a short stint in the Shaanxi province. Ironically it was my English skill set, which typically poses numerous issues for me, that had me handpicked for the role. So for the past two and a half weeks (either side of my short trip back to Beijing to visit B) I have been working in Xi'an, a relatively 'small' city with six and a half million residents famous for its Terracotta Warriors. Aside from the obvious perks - hotel living, fresh new towels daily, buffet breakfast etc, it gave me a good opportunity to get my hands dirty working on a new client in the gas exploration and production industry. Being a French company headed by predominantly Parisian expats I was also entrusted with the essential task of translating "English with a very heavy French accent" to "English that my Chinese colleagues could understand." 

Although the days were typical of those that I endure during busy season at home, the nights were enjoyed venturing to the Muslim snack street night markets, and the weekends touring the sites and relics of what once used to be the capital city of ancient dynasties. These included the City Wall, the Bell and Drum Towers, the Big Wild Goose Pagoda, the Banpo Neolithic (6000 year old) Village Museum, a silk factory, a Terra Cotta warrior making factory, and finally (when the tour guide and his sidekick driver decided we had endured enough sightseeing despite this being a HALF-DAY ONE STOP tour) the actual Terracotta warriors. 

I schlepped to the sights, you can schlep through my photos...deal?!

En Route to the night markets

Muslim snack street night markets

Make your own noodle soup. 

Moo

Local famous delicacy...(halal) "Chinese hamburgers"

Other local delicacies

Hot Pot with the audit team

Hotel room with a view

In the hotel elevator, naturally!

Hotel restaurant menu

Banpo Neolithic (6000 year-old) Village Museum - clay  

Signs of a matriarchal society...for once!

Big Wild Goose Pagoda. 

Terracotta Warriors

The story goes....the King requested that his army be buried (alive) alongside him. Instead they built him an army out of clay...

Although looking relatively small in this photo, they are life size each with a unique face.

Plane food

Came across this on the flight home...policy is about kick in - localization of the Big Four which has already begun (I am the only foreigner in my division at my level, while about 50% of the directors and partners are from overseas...not for long!)

I leave you with a tale typical of the daily challenges I encounter... 

Simple, mundane task: buy phone credit.....I head out during my lunch break to visit the newsstand around the corner. On the way I notice that in between the noodle houses, tobacco stores and hoards of people and bicycles, the side street is dotted with phone shops - too easy.

I turn into one and attempt to convey what I'm looking for using a combination of broken English/Mandarin, hand gestures mimicking I’m on the phone, showing them the China Unicom text message informing me I have no credit remaining (thanks for the heads up), and finally handing over my phone so they can listen to the Mandarin voice message prompting "insufficient credit to make this phone call".

Their response put simply was “mayao" i.e. "no have". I repeat this process no less than seven times before eventually reaching the newsstand I originally intended to go to. Again neither of the women sitting out the front are able to provide me with the prepaid card I was seeking.

Finally the younger of the two begins to point somewhere in the distance. Failing miserably to identify exactly what she’s referring to, her good intentions result in her escorting me down the road to yet another phone shop stop. But again ,"mayao."

We return to the newsstand where this time the elderly lady, eagerly grinning grasping her cane, offers to guide me in the opposite direction, turning left down an alleyway, then right and left again. This time it looks promising, especially when another young girl who can string somewhat of a sentence together in English enters the store. Eventually after my expedition hits forty minutes, the three of us succeed in purchasing 200 kuai of phone credit. Mazal tov.

Despite getting lost trying to find my way back to the client, and almost being bowled over by a bicycle (which I barely flinch at these days given they are now common occurrences), the huge sense of accomplishment keeps the smile on my face all the way back to the office....

....no task is mundane in China !

Until next time, Zai Jian! xx